Within a few hours of arrival, I had established that Dar es Salaam is one of the dullest cities on the planet. At the first possible opportunity, I boarded a ferry for the island of Zanzibar just off Tanzania’s coast in the Indian Ocean. I’m not the person who can spend an entire holiday at the beach, but after 11 weeks of non-stop travel and plenty of nights in rather insalubrious accommodation, I'm ready to relax. Zanzibar is the clichéd tropical paradise, with perfect white sandy beaches shaded by coconut palms, turquoise blue water and dhows pulled up on the beach. Bole bole (slowly slowly in Swahili) is the way of life here. Not much to do but sit back, look lazily out to sea and reflect on my East African experiences….
In short, I enjoyed this trip more and more as I headed south. The Islamic countries, Egypt and northern Sudan, were interesting but not actually much FUN. It was fascinating to follow the Nile south through the desert and explore ruins and remote villages along the way, but it was also hard work. I must be getting older. Sudan was special for the friendliness and helpfulness of its people. In Ethiopia I had the most intense ‘cultural’ experience. The curious locals never hesitated to engage me in conversation. Sometimes a good friendship developed, on other occasions the guy turned out to be an idiot, or else just wanted some money. Quiet moments by myself were a rarity. It was also a tough battle to pay the same price as the locals, or at least a fair price. Looking back, these frequent and often intense interactions with the locals are what stick in my mind the most and make Ethiopia one of the most memorable countries on my route. It is certainly a very special place.
I had a particularly good time in East Africa (Kenya, Uganda and Tanzania). Mt Kenya, the Masai Mara, rafting at Jinja, the Murchison Falls, the gorillas and Zanzibar were all highlights. The climate was pleasant, a cold beer was always close at hand and I met many good people. I never ventured far from the well-trodden tourist trail on this trip but generally felt safe everywhere I went. I am now very curious about the countries in southern Africa (in particular Mozambique, Angola, Zambia, Namibia, Lesotho and South Africa) and would love to explore this region by bicycle some day. All in all, it has been a successful (if slightly unspectacular) trip.
The sweet view from my bungalow
In short, I enjoyed this trip more and more as I headed south. The Islamic countries, Egypt and northern Sudan, were interesting but not actually much FUN. It was fascinating to follow the Nile south through the desert and explore ruins and remote villages along the way, but it was also hard work. I must be getting older. Sudan was special for the friendliness and helpfulness of its people. In Ethiopia I had the most intense ‘cultural’ experience. The curious locals never hesitated to engage me in conversation. Sometimes a good friendship developed, on other occasions the guy turned out to be an idiot, or else just wanted some money. Quiet moments by myself were a rarity. It was also a tough battle to pay the same price as the locals, or at least a fair price. Looking back, these frequent and often intense interactions with the locals are what stick in my mind the most and make Ethiopia one of the most memorable countries on my route. It is certainly a very special place.
I had a particularly good time in East Africa (Kenya, Uganda and Tanzania). Mt Kenya, the Masai Mara, rafting at Jinja, the Murchison Falls, the gorillas and Zanzibar were all highlights. The climate was pleasant, a cold beer was always close at hand and I met many good people. I never ventured far from the well-trodden tourist trail on this trip but generally felt safe everywhere I went. I am now very curious about the countries in southern Africa (in particular Mozambique, Angola, Zambia, Namibia, Lesotho and South Africa) and would love to explore this region by bicycle some day. All in all, it has been a successful (if slightly unspectacular) trip.
The sweet view from my bungalow
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