I got my chance to do a safari while in Nakuru, Kenya’s fourth-largest city. After a bit of hard bargaining, a tour operator offered me a good price to join a tour to the Masai Mara game reserve. I saw a nice selection of animals, but missed out on rhinos, cheetahs and leopards. The wildebeest had already migrated south to the Serengeti and although there were quite a few stragglers left behind, I don’t think I saw the Masai Mara at its best. Even though it was low season, there were quite a few tourists cruising around the reserve in Hiaces and Jeeps. The pressure was on the guides to show their customers the ‘big five’, so if anything ‘special’ like a lion or elephant was spotted, there was always a mad rush. If anyone found a lion, for example, half a dozen vehicles would suddenly converge on him, ruining his peace and preventing him from hunting. On another occasion, I observed from a distance as a harassed elephant suddenly turned and charged the convoy of three vans that was following him. Seeing such things made me feel a bit uncomfortable. Surely not all safaris are like this?
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